Despite my initial annoyance, I was fortunate upon my return to London that my King’s Cross train was cancelled and was forced to take a Liverpool Street station train instead. “Fortunate” in that I was about to experience one of the greatest architectural cityscape shocks of my life. Liverpool Street Station has long been the principal transportation hub for the old East End. One that I frequented the most when working in London back in the day.
Later during my diplomatic posting to London I was aware of the plans for the modernization of the station itself. So I wasn’t too surprised to see the sparkling refurbishment of the old establishment. The former’s Victorian urinals were once a must see in some of the more quirky London guidebooks.
It wasn’t until I reached street level however, that I had to rub my eyes in disbelief. What city was I in?? Desperately seeking visual clues of the old area of yore, I was at a complete loss. Is this “Disney” London…… or what??
Some street views below: (I thought Mark Carney promised that this building frenzy wasn’t supposed to happen in the wake of the Brexit vote. Guess he got that a tad wrong!)
PETTICOAT LANE
The old street market of world fame still exists just steps from the station. As does the modernized Spitalsfield market seen below.
SPITALSFIELD MARKET
DIRTY DICKS
Founded in 1745, Dirty Dicks pub is an iconic establishment of the area. As late as London’s “swinging sixties’, it could proudly declare with boastful verisimilitude of being the dirtiest pub in London. I can vouch for that! I downed many a pint here amongst the cobwebs and sawdust while waiting for trains north to Cambridge. It was just across the street from the main entrance to the station with its old cast iron “apples and pears” (stairs) down to the rail platforms below.
Now more of a fashionable wine bar, I must admit that it was with welcome nostalgic relief that I spotted Dirty Dicks old facade. Made me feel a little more at home in this sea of modernity.
THE TEN BELLS
Famous in “Ripperology,” The Ten Bells is the pub from which Jack stalked one or two of his victims. If Jack were brought back to life today, he might have to hire a tour guide to navigate his old stomping grounds. Any volunteers???