The “Eagle” is perhaps the most famous of all Cambridge pubs. Oddly enough it wasn’t until my recent visit in September, that I actually finally stepped in to order a pint. Call it precognition or whatever, my brief visit seemed to be especially well timed.
“Drink In Some History”
Cambridgeshire is as flat as the Canadian prairies. Given its proximity to the continent, it became home to famous WWII airfields. I especially enjoyed the preservation of all the ceiling graffiti from the now dead airmen of that unmitigated disaster.
“THE SECRET OF LIFE“
Dr. James Watson died last week at the age of 97.
His fellow scientist, Francis Crick, made the first braggadocious announcement of their discovery of the “Secret of Life”……..DNA… to lunchtime patrons here at the Eagle.Probably not the most scholarly of audiences!
However, given that the Eagle is just a short walk down Free School Lane from the famous old Cavendish laboratory, the Eagle’s patronage was no doubt more scientific than your average British pub.
A free day in London!A daydream of mine during my four years of working in Mayfair. What to do when you are so spoiled for choice??It didn’t take me too long to come up with an idea. Time to make amends for something I’m almost too embarrased to admit as a graduate in Electrical Engineering. On an almost daily basis I used to trod down Albermarle Street.Never once did I drop in to visit the Royal Institution’s Faraday Museum.
In my defence, it was always a bit out of the way. Coming out of Berkley Square, I would head up Hay Hill and make a right turn on Dover Street, never missing the opportunity to walk through the foyer of the famous Brown’s Hotel to see how the other half live and exiting on the hotel’s Albermarle entrance to miss the Faraday by about 80 yards down on the left.
Albermarle has historic connections to Lord Byron and Oscar Wilde who ended up in prison as a result of losing a litigation stemming from his membership in the Albermarle Club.
Franklin Delano Rooseveldt and his wife Eleanor spent their honeymoon in Brown’s. Writing home to his mother, he proudly proclaimed that it was the most expensive in London.Forget the Ritz, I’m reliably informed that London’s best afternoon tea is served at Brown’s. Should you win the lottery and are in need of a guest, let me know!!
(Remember to click on individual images to display full screen)
WALL CLOCK, FORTNUM AND MASONS, PICCADILLY
Walking up from Pall Mall through the Piccadilly Arcade (who can afford this stuff?), I pass Fortnum and Masons on Piccadilly at exactly the stroke of noon and for the very first time in my life catch the appearance of the two butlers normally hidden in their sentry boxes. I take this to be propitious.
THE ROYAL INSTITUTION
MICHAEL FARADAY
THE PERIODIC TABLE
Researchers of the Royal Institution were responsible for the discovery of 10 elements in the periodic table.
STRUCTURE FACTOR TABLES, KATHLEEN LONSDALE 1936
In 1936, Kathleen Lonsdale published a book, composed entirely of her neat handwriting, entitled “Simplified structure factor and electron density formulae for the 230 space groups of mathematical crystallography” on behalf of the Royal Insititution. Whew!Hope you got that!! Probably never made the New York Times best seller list.
For me, it brought back nightmare memories of a third year engineering calculus exam! Nevertheless, it was heartening to be reminded that the human mind is capable of extremely complex scientific concepts without the modern aid of quantum computing and artificial intelligence.Congratulations Kathleen!
A MOCK UP OF FARADAY’S LABORATORY
Posted inHISTORICAL, PEOPLE, TOURING|Comments Off on THE FARADAY MUSEUM, ALBERMARLE STREET, MAYFAIR
One of my goals on my recent trip was to renew my acquaintance with the work of J M W Turner. I recall making a trip to Toronto in 1980 to specifically see the exhibition of “Turner and the Sublime” in the Art Gallery of Ontario. My last trip to the Tate Britain gallery was as a guest of British Aerospace for a private champagne viewing. Unfortunately I had to professionally “work” the gallery and having consumed too much champagne had little time for the works of Turner.Talk about being a complete philistine!
So on a fabulous September morning I strolled through St. James’s park, saying hello to the resident flock of pelicans taking the benches from annoyed but highly bemused tourists.
PELICAN
The pelicans were originally a gift of the Russian ambassador in 1664.
From the Park, I proceeded through Parliament Square to snag an image of my fellow collegian, Oliver Cromwell.So he had King Charles I’s head chopped off. Hey, nobody’s perfect!
OLIVER CROMWELL, PARLIAMENT SQUARE
From here it was a short walk down Millbank towards the Tate when a familiar building hove into sight across the river..
MI6 Secret Service HQ
Lacking a “double 0” licence, I thought it best not to try and make an entrance and see if Miss Moneypenny was still working there. I recall a modern James Bond flic where this building was “blown up.”In the words of the late great John Candy, “She blowed up. She blowed up REAL good!”
THE TATE BRITAIN ART GALLERY, MILLBANK, LONDON
JMW PERSONALLY GREETS YOU AT THE ENTRANCE
A SELF PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST AS A YOUNG MAN
The image above is composited with the image below on the British 20 pound note and sits across from a portrait of our late departed Queen. Turner is rewarded with his name on the bill. I know how that feels. Thanks to the appearance of his “Spirit of Haida Gwai,” on the Canadian $20 bill, the Haida artist Bill Reid had his name on the edge of the bill! Thanks for the name recognition Bill.
THE FIGHTING TEMERAIRE
My favourite Turner. To my surprise it was not in the Tate but in the National Gallery, Trafalgar Square. How appropriate as the Temeraire played a vital role in Nelson’s famous battle of the same name.
Having been born a couple of blocks from the Welland canal, ships have been a big part of my life and probably explains my decade of service to the Royal Canadian Navy.
As a young paper boy with a route along the canal, I delivered papers to the shipping company of a man who had earned his master’s certificate under sail on the Great Lakes. As shipping technology changed, he would go on to build the biggest freighter on the Lakes…..the Scott Misner. At that time I was personal witness to the change of shipping fuel from from coal at my uncle’s coal dock to bunker C oil.
In the “Fighting Temeraire,” Turner perfectly captures the end of the era of sail. The ghostly galleon of legendary fame is being towed ignominiously to a breakers yard by a lowly steam powered tug snorting filthy coal dust exhaust into the atmosphere.Turner the romantic was obviously not amused.
NATIONAL RECOGNITION OF TURNER AND HIS WORK
“LIGHT IS THEREFORE COLOUR”
TEAL IN FLIGHT
I was greatly satisfied to see this depiction in watercolour of a Teal by Turner.
BUDDING YOUNG ARTIST IN THE NATIONAL GALLERY
On my trip to the National Gallery to find the Fighting Temeraire, I was pleasantly surprised to see this young artist hone her craft.
For those who are in interested in London photography in general, you are invited to peruse a half century of my image collections here:
King’s college chapel is an active house of worship and home of the world famous King’s College Choir. It is the architectural jewel of both the City and the University of Cambridge.Both use it as their iconic symbol.Truly a “must see” on any visit to Cambridge.
Although I have visited the Chapel many times in the past, my recent visit of a couple hours was the most exhaustive, exploring each side chapel filled with historical references.
RAINBOW OVER KING’S COLLEGE CHAPEL
Without the benefit of a tripod, I recall getting soaked lying on the wet grass and stabilising the camera on my backpack to grab this once in a lifetime image after a sudden downfall during a previous visit.
KING’S COLLEGE CHAPEL AS SEEN FROM GREAT SAINT MARY’S CHURCH BELL TOWER
My ears were ringing when I was caught unawares by St. Mary’s pealing bellsjust feet away at the moment of capture.
CHANCEL WITH CHOIR STALLS
The Christmas Eve service by the King’s Choir is broadcast round the world.Years ago as a student I was most fortunate to obtain a rare ticket to the pre Christmas eve recital which had been parceled out to all of the colleges. Changed my favourite Christmas carol from “Good King Wenceslas” to Holst’s “In the Bleak Midwinter”.
The 16th-century stained glass, depicting biblical scenes, is among the most significant in Europe, especially renowned for its vivid colours and intricate details.
ADORATION OF THE MAGI, PETER PAUL RUBENS
CEILING FAN VAULTING WITH TONS OF LIMESTONE SEEMINGLY DEFYING GRAVITY
An extraordinary feat of engineering!! It is the largest fan vault in the world and showcases the craftsmanship of the Gothic era.
OAK ROOD SCREEN, GIFT OF KING HENRY VIII
16th CENTURYPIPE ORGAN
CARVED HENRY VIII INSIGNIA WHICH FESTOONS THE OAK SCREEN
In British heraldry the R stands for Rex
THE SOLITARY REFERENCE TO THE BRIEF UNION OF HENRY VIII AND ANNE BOLEYN
This carved heraldry emblem provides an accurate dating of the oak screen gift. Henry and Anne were wed in 1530 and she was beheaded in 1533.Try and find this historical oddity on your next visit.
HANGING LIMESTONE VOUSSOIR
For those interested in Cambridge in general, you are invited to peruse my photobook, “Sublime Cambridge“:
Highlight of my Cambridge trip was undoubtedly a visit to the Scott Polar Museum. Where had this been all my life? Now having some familiarity with both Polar regions it was long past time for an extended reconnoitre (aided mightily by an engaging and very knowledgeable receptionist who ensured I missed nothing! Thank you very much. You did the museum proud Mam!)
(NB: Click on an image to view full screen)
ANTARCTIC FOSSIL SHOWING HISTORICAL EVIDENCE OF MUCH WARMER CLIMES IN THE FAR SOUTH
MAKESHIFT SNOW SHOE FOR BRITISH PONIES
Robert Falcon Scott’s use of ponies as draught animals probably doomed his mission (and his life!) to be the first to reach the South Pole. The exertion sweat of the ponies exposed them to hypothermia which demanded extra care and slowed progress. Amundsen’s use of dogs whose lack of sweat glands was the better choice as they could cool down through panting. In addition, dogs could be better prepared for the extreme rigours of the travail with the abundant Antarctic resources of seal and penguin meat.
A REMARKABLE ARCTIC COMMUNICATION ATTEMPT
I was absolutely thunder struck by this exhibit of an extraordinary attempt at communication in the Far North in the age of the Franklin rescue parties.
EASILY TAMED ARCTIC FOX
For those who might wonder how the Franklin rescue parties could possibly collar a wild fox, the above image shows one of my pilots feeding an Arctic Fox an Oreo cookie (their favourite) on Ellesmere Island. Given the remoteness of Ellesmere, remember that these animals had never seen a human being before and hence had no fear of our presence and did not perceive us as a threat.
THE STORY OF MATTHEW HENSON
Matthew’s legacy lives on in the family trees of several Inuit clans as both he and Peary took “country wives” during their long periods in the North.
FORT CONGOR, ELLESMERE ISLAND
This is the Fort Congor hut on Ellesmere Island wherein Peary had frozen toes amputated by the faithful Henson prior to his dash to the pole. If he did make it to the North Pole, he did it on mutilated feet.
A WELL TRAVELLED TELESCOPE
This telescope in its leather case is probably the world’s most well travelled! It was used on board HMS Discovery during the British Arctic Expedition, 1875-76 and again during Scott’s National Antarctic (Discovery) expedition, 1901-04. It was lent to NASA in 1984 and taken around the earth in the Space Shuttle orbiter, appropriately named …….Discovery.
NB: In the 60s, HMS Discovery was moored along the Embankment in central London as a floating museum. Although I passed it many times in my youth, I never visited. At the time I had no idea how much the Arctic would become part of my professional and personal life. It has now been removed to Aberdeen Harbour. A bucket list item for my next visit to Scotland!
THE SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON
The Shackleton is the Polar Museum’s replica of the James Caird, the small lifeboat used by Shackleton to navigate 800 nautical (1200 statute) miles to South Georgia in an attempt to seek rescue for his stranded crew of 22 on Elephant Island. His success is one of the greatest feats of open water navigation in human history.
The “Shackleton” was used in a successful 1994 re-enactment of Shackleton’s famous voyage.It is the museum’s pride and joy.
SHACKLETON’S DESPARATE DEPARTURE FOR SOUTH GEORGIA ON BOARD THE IMPROVISED JAMES CAIRDLIFEBOAT
“BON VOYAGE!Send us an email when you get there!“
NB:You have to wonder about the mindset of the stranded crew as they watched this small dot disappear over the horizon of the black water Southern Ocean. What were the odds that they would ever see the “Boss” again? And if they didn’t, a very bleak future of eventual starvation and inevitable canabalism awaited them. The odds of success must have seemed about the same for a note in a bottle.
Upon his return in the rescue vessel, Shackleton stood in the forecastle, counting time and time again upon the final approach, the number of men on shore jumping and waving hysterically at their unbelievable salvation. Each time he counted he got the magic number 22. After a three month absence, he hadn’t lost a manjack of them!!
THE “BOSS,” ERNEST SHACKLETON, ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, EXHIBITION ROAD, LONDON
HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ONE OF AMUNDSEN’S SUPPLY DEPOT MARKERS
Note the use of abandoned original equipment which struck a personal chord with me. See below for an example in the Canadian Far North.
PEARY’S MONUMENT, MARKING HIS DEPARTURE FROM LAND, CAPE ALDRICH, ELLESMERE ISLAND, ON HIS DASH TO THE NORTH POLE IN 1909
Here’s me putting the finishing touches on repairs to Peary’s monument at the extreme northern tip of Canada. Notice the abandoned ski at the back and the corn cob pipe!!
For those interested in viewing photos of my recent trip to the Antarctic click here:
Despite my initial annoyance, I was fortunate upon my return to London that my King’s Cross train was cancelled and was forced to take a Liverpool Street station train instead. “Fortunate” in that I was about to experience one of the greatest architectural cityscape shocks of my life. Liverpool Street Station has long been the principal transportation hub for the old East End. One that I frequented the most when working in London back in the day.
Later during my diplomatic posting to London I was aware of the plans for the modernization of the station itself. So I wasn’t too surprised to see the sparkling refurbishment of the old establishment. The former’s Victorian urinals were once a must see in some of the more quirky London guidebooks.
It wasn’t until I reached street level however, that I had to rub my eyes in disbelief. What city was I in?? Desperately seeking visual clues of the old area of yore, I was at a complete loss. Is this “Disney” London…… or what??
Some street views below: (I thought Mark Carney promised that this building frenzy wasn’t supposed to happen in the wake of the Brexit vote. Guess he got that a tad wrong!)
PETTICOAT LANE
The old street market of world fame still exists just steps from the station. As does the modernized Spitalsfield market seen below.
SPITALSFIELD MARKET
DIRTY DICKS
Founded in 1745, Dirty Dicks pub is an iconic establishment of the area. As late as London’s “swinging sixties”, it could proudly declare with boastful verisimilitude of being the dirtiest pub in London. I can vouch for that! I downed many a pint here amongst the cobwebs and sawdust while waiting for trains north to Cambridge. It was just across the street from the main entrance to the station with its old cast iron “apples and pears” (stairs) down to the rail platforms below.
Now more of a fashionable wine bar, I must admit that it was with welcome nostalgic relief that I spotted Dirty Dicks old facade.Made me feel a little more at home in this sea of modernity.
THE TEN BELLS
Famous in “Ripperology,” The Ten Bells is the pub from which Jack stalked one or two of his victims. If Jack were brought back to life today, he might have to hire a tour guide to navigate his old stomping grounds.
Any volunteers???
Posted inHISTORICAL, TOURING|Comments Off on LIVERPOOL STREET STATION
Just got back from a quick trip to the UK which included a reunion dinner at my old Cambridge college. Gave me the chance to retrod many of the steps taken in my youth. One such stop was to the world’s oldest debating society……..the Cambridge Union.
Standing in this empty hall just days ago, I could still hear the long ago voices of Christian apologist and world famous journalist, Malcom Muggeridge, the Archbishop of Canterbury (head of the world wide Anglican church), and R. A. Butler (Deputy Prime Minister to both PMs Eden and MacMillan). Wonder what they would have to say about the modern attack on free speech throughout the Anglosphere.
While enjoying a cup of coffee at my local canal side bistro, I noticed the comings and goings of red-winged blackbirds seeking scraps from the neighbouring vacated tables. It gave me the idea to try the bird flight capture mode of my new camera on these high velocity incoming targets. The highest focus challenge in photography! With no benefit of experimentation with the basic settings, initial results were rather impressive. With practice, (and especially not trying to balance a cup of coffee with my camera while I shoot), I’m sure I can do better. Stand by for improvements!
