JOHN MALLORY WILLIAM TURNER

One of my goals on my recent trip was to renew my acquaintance with the work of J M W Turner. I recall making a trip to Toronto in 1980 to specifically see the exhibition of “Turner and the Sublime” in the Art Gallery of Ontario. My last trip to the Tate Britain gallery was as a guest of British Aerospace for a private champagne viewing. Unfortunately I had to professionally “work” the gallery and having consumed too much champagne had little time for the works of Turner. Talk about being a complete philistine!

So on a fabulous September morning I strolled through St. James’s park, saying hello to the resident flock of pelicans taking the benches from annoyed but highly bemused tourists.

PELICAN

The pelicans were originally a gift of the Russian ambassador in 1664.

From the Park, I proceeded through Parliament Square to snag an image of my fellow collegian, Oliver Cromwell. So he had King Charles I’s head chopped off. Hey, nobody’s perfect!

OLIVER CROMWELL, PARLIAMENT SQUARE

From here it was a short walk down Millbank towards the Tate when a familiar building hove into sight across the river..

MI6 Secret Service HQ

Lacking a “double 0” licence, I thought it best not to try and make an entrance and see if Miss Moneypenny was still working there. I recall a modern James Bond flic where this building was “blown up.” In the words of the late great John Candy, “She blowed up. She blowed up REAL good!”

THE TATE BRITAIN ART GALLERY, MILLBANK, LONDON

JMW PERSONALLY GREETS YOU AT THE ENTRANCE

A SELF PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST AS A YOUNG MAN

The image above is composited with the image below on the British 20 pound note and sits across from a portrait of our late departed Queen. Turner is rewarded with his name on the bill. I know how that feels. Thanks to the appearance of his “Spirit of Haida Gwai,” on the Canadian $20 bill, the Haida artist Bill Reid had his name on the edge of the bill! Thanks for the name recognition Bill.

THE FIGHTING TEMERAIRE

My favourite Turner. To my surprise it was not in the Tate but in the National Gallery, Trafalgar Square. How appropriate as the Temeraire played a vital role in Nelson’s famous battle of the same name.

Having been born a couple of blocks from the Welland canal, ships have been a big part of my life and probably explains my decade of service to the Royal Canadian Navy.

As a young paper boy with a route along the canal, I delivered papers to the shipping company of a man who had earned his master’s certificate under sail on the Great Lakes. As shipping technology changed, he would go on to build the biggest freighter on the Lakes…..the Scott Misner. At that time I was personal witness to the change of shipping fuel from from coal at my uncle’s coal dock to bunker C oil.

In the “Fighting Temeraire,” Turner perfectly captures the end of the era of sail. The ghostly galleon of legendary fame is being towed ignominiously to a breakers yard by a lowly steam powered tug snorting filthy coal dust exhaust into the atmosphere. Turner the romantic was obviously not amused.

NATIONAL RECOGNITION OF TURNER AND HIS WORK

“LIGHT IS THEREFORE COLOUR”

TEAL IN FLIGHT

I was greatly satisfied to see this depiction in watercolour of a Teal by Turner.

BUDDING YOUNG ARTIST IN THE NATIONAL GALLERY

On my trip to the National Gallery to find the Fighting Temeraire, I was pleasantly surprised to see this young artist hone her craft.

For those who are in interested in London photography in general, you are invited to peruse a half century of my image collections here:

https://www.blurb.ca/b/11348735-london

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KING’S COLLEGE CHAPEL, CAMBRIDGE

King’s college chapel is an active house of worship and home of the world famous King’s College Choir. It is the architectural jewel of both the City and the University of Cambridge. Both use it as their iconic symbol. Truly a “must see” on any visit to Cambridge.

Although I have visited the Chapel many times in the past, my recent visit of a couple hours was the most exhaustive, exploring each side chapel filled with historical references.

RAINBOW OVER KING’S COLLEGE CHAPEL

Without the benefit of a tripod, I recall getting soaked lying on the wet grass and stabilising the camera on my backpack to grab this once in a lifetime image after a sudden downfall during a previous visit.

KING’S COLLEGE CHAPEL AS SEEN FROM GREAT SAINT MARY’S CHURCH BELL TOWER

My ears were ringing when I was caught unawares by St. Mary’s pealing bells just feet away at the moment of capture.

CHANCEL WITH CHOIR STALLS

The Christmas Eve service by the King’s Choir is broadcast round the world. Years ago as a student I was most fortunate to obtain a rare ticket to the pre Christmas eve recital which had been parceled out to all of the colleges. Changed my favourite Christmas carol from “Good King Wenceslas” to Holst’s “In the Bleak Midwinter”.

The 16th-century stained glass, depicting biblical scenes, is among the most significant in Europe, especially renowned for its vivid colours and intricate details.

ADORATION OF THE MAGI, PETER PAUL RUBENS

CEILING FAN VAULTING WITH TONS OF LIMESTONE SEEMINGLY DEFYING GRAVITY

An extraordinary feat of engineering!! It is the largest fan vault in the world and showcases the craftsmanship of the Gothic era.

OAK ROOD SCREEN, GIFT OF KING HENRY VIII

16th CENTURY PIPE ORGAN

CARVED HENRY VIII INSIGNIA WHICH FESTOONS THE OAK SCREEN

In British heraldry the R stands for Rex

THE SOLITARY REFERENCE TO THE BRIEF UNION OF HENRY VIII AND ANNE BOLEYN

This carved heraldry emblem provides an accurate dating of the oak screen gift. Henry and Anne were wed in 1530 and she was beheaded in 1533. Try and find this historical oddity on your next visit.

HANGING LIMESTONE VOUSSOIR

For those interested in Cambridge in general, you are invited to peruse my photobook, “Sublime Cambridge“:

https://www.blurb.ca/books/10942897-sublime-cambridge

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SCOTT POLAR MUSEUM, CAMBRIDGE

Highlight of my Cambridge trip was undoubtedly a visit to the Scott Polar Museum. Where had this been all my life? Now having some familiarity with both Polar regions it was long past time for an extended reconnoitre (aided mightily by an engaging and very knowledgeable receptionist who ensured I missed nothing! Thank you very much. You did the museum proud Mam!)

(NB: Click on an image to view full screen)

ANTARCTIC FOSSIL SHOWING HISTORICAL EVIDENCE OF MUCH WARMER CLIMES IN THE FAR SOUTH

MAKESHIFT SNOW SHOE FOR BRITISH PONIES

Robert Falcon Scott’s use of ponies as draught animals probably doomed his mission (and his life!) to be the first to reach the South Pole. The exertion sweat of the ponies exposed them to hypothermia which demanded extra care and slowed progress. Amundsen’s use of dogs whose lack of sweat glands was the better choice as they could cool down through panting. In addition, dogs could be better prepared for the extreme rigours of the travail with the abundant Antarctic resources of seal and penguin meat.

A REMARKABLE ARCTIC COMMUNICATION ATTEMPT

I was absolutely thunder struck by this exhibit of an extraordinary attempt at communication in the Far North in the age of the Franklin rescue parties.

EASILY TAMED ARCTIC FOX

For those who might wonder how the Franklin rescue parties could possibly collar a wild fox, the above image shows one of my pilots feeding an Arctic Fox an Oreo cookie (their favourite) on Ellesmere Island. Given the remoteness of Ellesmere, remember that these animals had never seen a human being before and hence had no fear of our presence and did not perceive us as a threat.

THE STORY OF MATTHEW HENSON

Matthew’s legacy lives on in the family trees of several Inuit clans as both he and Peary took “country wives” during their long periods in the North.

FORT CONGOR, ELLESMERE ISLAND

This is the Fort Congor hut on Ellesmere Island wherein Peary had frozen toes amputated by the faithful Henson prior to his dash to the pole. If he did make it to the North Pole, he did it on mutilated feet.

A WELL TRAVELLED TELESCOPE

This telescope in its leather case is probably the world’s most well travelled! It was used on board HMS Discovery during the British Arctic Expedition, 1875-76 and again during Scott’s National Antarctic (Discovery) expedition, 1901-04. It was lent to NASA in 1984 and taken around the earth in the Space Shuttle orbiter, appropriately named ……. Discovery.

NB: In the 60s, HMS Discovery was moored along the Embankment in central London as a floating museum. Although I passed it many times in my youth, I never visited. At the time I had no idea how much the Arctic would become part of my professional and personal life. It has now been removed to Aberdeen Harbour. A bucket list item for my next visit to Scotland!

THE SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON

The Shackleton is the Polar Museum’s replica of the James Caird, the small lifeboat used by Shackleton to navigate 800 nautical (1200 statute) miles to South Georgia in an attempt to seek rescue for his stranded crew of 22 on Elephant Island. His success is one of the greatest feats of open water navigation in human history.

The “Shackleton” was used in a successful 1994 re-enactment of Shackleton’s famous voyage. It is the museum’s pride and joy.

SHACKLETON’S DESPARATE DEPARTURE FOR SOUTH GEORGIA ON BOARD THE IMPROVISED JAMES CAIRD LIFEBOAT

BON VOYAGE! Send us an email when you get there!

NB: You have to wonder about the mindset of the stranded crew as they watched this small dot disappear over the horizon of the black water Southern Ocean. What were the odds that they would ever see the “Boss” again? And if they didn’t, a very bleak future of eventual starvation and inevitable canabalism awaited them. The odds of success must have seemed about the same for a note in a bottle.

Upon his return in the rescue vessel, Shackleton stood in the forecastle, counting time and time again upon the final approach, the number of men on shore jumping and waving hysterically at their unbelievable salvation. Each time he counted he got the magic number 22. After a three month absence, he hadn’t lost a manjack of them!!

THE “BOSS,” ERNEST SHACKLETON, ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, EXHIBITION ROAD, LONDON

HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ONE OF AMUNDSEN’S SUPPLY DEPOT MARKERS

Note the use of abandoned original equipment which struck a personal chord with me. See below for an example in the Canadian Far North.

PEARY’S MONUMENT, MARKING HIS DEPARTURE FROM LAND, CAPE ALDRICH, ELLESMERE ISLAND, ON HIS DASH TO THE NORTH POLE IN 1909

Here’s me putting the finishing touches on repairs to Peary’s monument at the extreme northern tip of Canada. Notice the abandoned ski at the back and the corn cob pipe!!

For those interested in viewing photos of my recent trip to the Antarctic click here:

https://www.blurb.ca/b/12320479-antarctica-adventure

For those interested in viewing photos of the Canadian arctic click below:

Ellesmere Island:

https://www.blurb.ca/books/8060559-ellesmere-island

Baffin Island Adventure

https://www.blurb.ca/books/7687873-baffin-island-adventure

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LIVERPOOL STREET STATION

Despite my initial annoyance, I was fortunate upon my return to London that my King’s Cross train was cancelled and was forced to take a Liverpool Street station train instead. “Fortunate” in that I was about to experience one of the greatest architectural cityscape shocks of my life. Liverpool Street Station has long been the principal transportation hub for the old East End. One that I frequented the most when working in London back in the day.

Later during my diplomatic posting to London I was aware of the plans for the modernization of the station itself. So I wasn’t too surprised to see the sparkling refurbishment of the old establishment. The former’s Victorian urinals were once a must see in some of the more quirky London guidebooks.

It wasn’t until I reached street level however, that I had to rub my eyes in disbelief. What city was I in?? Desperately seeking visual clues of the old area of yore, I was at a complete loss. Is this “Disney” London…… or what??

Some street views below: (I thought Mark Carney promised that this building frenzy wasn’t supposed to happen in the wake of the Brexit vote. Guess he got that a tad wrong!)

PETTICOAT LANE

The old street market of world fame still exists just steps from the station. As does the modernized Spitalsfield market seen below.

SPITALSFIELD MARKET

DIRTY DICKS

Founded in 1745, Dirty Dicks pub is an iconic establishment of the area. As late as London’s “swinging sixties”, it could proudly declare with boastful verisimilitude of being the dirtiest pub in London. I can vouch for that! I downed many a pint here amongst the cobwebs and sawdust while waiting for trains north to Cambridge. It was just across the street from the main entrance to the station with its old cast iron “apples and pears” (stairs) down to the rail platforms below.

Now more of a fashionable wine bar, I must admit that it was with welcome nostalgic relief that I spotted Dirty Dicks old facade. Made me feel a little more at home in this sea of modernity.

THE TEN BELLS

Famous in “Ripperology,” The Ten Bells is the pub from which Jack stalked one or two of his victims. If Jack were brought back to life today, he might have to hire a tour guide to navigate his old stomping grounds.

Any volunteers???

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FREE SPEECH

Just got back from a quick trip to the UK which included a reunion dinner at my old Cambridge college. Gave me the chance to retrod many of the steps taken in my youth. One such stop was to the world’s oldest debating society……..the Cambridge Union.

Standing in this empty hall just days ago, I could still hear the long ago voices of Christian apologist and world famous journalist, Malcom Muggeridge, the Archbishop of Canterbury (head of the world wide Anglican church), and R. A. Butler (Deputy Prime Minister to both PMs Eden and MacMillan). Wonder what they would have to say about the modern attack on free speech throughout the Anglosphere.

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START OF FALL MIGRATION

Images from a recent trip to Lake Simcoe, Ontario. Fall migration off to a slow start.

Red-breasted Nuthatch with Juniper Berry

Trumpeter Swan Wingspread, Lake Simcoe

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The Great Glebe Art in the Garden Tour 2025

I’ll be participating in the Glebe Art in the Garden Tour this July 5-6.

Here’s a map to the stops on this year’s tour. As you can see, I will be site number one.

Hoping for good weather and looking forward to seeing many visitors.

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INCOMING!!

While enjoying a cup of coffee at my local canal side bistro, I noticed the comings and goings of red-winged blackbirds seeking scraps from the neighbouring vacated tables. It gave me the idea to try the bird flight capture mode of my new camera on these high velocity incoming targets. The highest focus challenge in photography! With no benefit of experimentation with the basic settings, initial results were rather impressive. With practice, (and especially not trying to balance a cup of coffee with my camera while I shoot), I’m sure I can do better. Stand by for improvements!

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SPRING MIGRATION

A few oddities from the start of this year’s Spring bird migration.

I was fortunate to spend some time with a cooperative Pileated Woodpecker.

PILEATED WOODPECKER

Their prehistoric appearance makes it easy to believe the modern theory that birds are the descendants of the dinosaurs.

PILEATED WOODPECKER IN FLIGHT

MALE CAPE MAY WARBLER DINES ON A MOSQUITO

WILD TURKEY IN FULL DISPLAY

BALTIMORE ORIOLE LAUNCHES IN APPLE BLOSSOMS

INDIGO BUNTING

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EASTER 2025

EASTER IN THE YEAR OF OUR LORD 2025

Some images from my trip to Israel several years ago.

THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, OLD JERUSALEM

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre site has been recognized since early in the fourth century as the place where Jesus was crucified, buried, and rose from the dead.

LADDER OF THE STATUS QUO

The immovable ladder as seen in the arcade of the first image above has remained in the same location at least since the 18th century as a result of the Status Quo. Its presence in its current location signifies the adherence to an agreement, the Status Quo, among six Christian denominations, who collectively own the church, not to move, repair, or alter anything in the church without the consent of all six denominations.

STONE OF THE ANOINTING

According to the Gospel of Matthew, it was Joseph of Arimathea, a secret follower of Christ of considerable wealth, who sought and obtained permission of Pontius Pilate to receive the body of Christ after crucifixion. His act of anointing Jesus’ body with perfumed oils and spices is seen as an act of devotion and respect. It is an essential component of the Christian understanding of Christ’s death, burial, and resurrection. The Stone of Anointing has not been without controversy. During the Middle Ages, it was damaged, and some accounts suggest it was even smashed. In the 12th century, it was replaced with a new stone. However it still remains a piece of deep Christian devotion and reverence to this day as can be seen in the image above.

During my visit, I was able to patiently stand in line and await my turn to kneel and touch the “Altar of Golgotha”, the very spot where the crucifixion post was sunk.

LOCATION OF CHRIST’S TOMB WITHIN THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem is the traditional location of Jesus Christ’s tomb. After The Anointing, Joseph of Arimathea laid the body of Christ in the unused sepulchre that he had constructed for his own burial. The tomb was buried by Emperor Hadrian & rediscovered in the time of Constantine.

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