A few panoramas to give you an idea of the scope, scale and majesty of Antarctica. Click images once with your mouse to download full screen display. Then click once again anywhere in the full screen view to examine the panorama in greater detail. Use the bottom and right grey bars at the extreme edges of the image to reposition the panorama to any particular point of interest.
DANCO ISLAND
TOUR SHIP APPROACHES BROWN STATION
PARADISE HARBOUR
TOUR BOAT BELOW MASSIVE GLACIER FIELD
PETERMANN ISLAND
CAPE HORN, HORNOS ISLAND, CHILE
Hornos Island is named after the Dutch city of Hoorn, which is the birthplace of Willem Corneliszoon Schouten, the Dutch navigator who first rounded Cape Horn in 1616. This panorama was shot with a telephoto lens as Chilean coastal restrictions do not allow incursions within a three mile limit. Many thanks to our stalwart captain for giving me the closest possible view of this historic landmark. In the days of the “old-time” sailor men, you weren’t considered a real sailor until you had “rounded the Horn,” notorious for its treacherous waters.
Ok, I hear you!! Enough already! We’ve had it with your wildlife and landscape photography. Did you not meet some personalities down South?? Short answer, “Sure did!!”
One such is Brenya Green from Dunnville, Ontario.
Here we are, two individuals from Canada’s Deep South reunited in Del Fin Del Mundo. Both born about 15 miles and several decades apart. Don’t let Brenya’s youth (pronounced Breena) fool you. She’s a veteran and very competent antarctic expedition leader. Learn more here:
Chinstrap penguins nest on high slopes because the highest, windiest slopes are the first to clear of snow, which allows them to build their nests. Nests built lower down on the slope could be buried in a late season snowstorm. It was painful to watch the slow, awkward but determined march up to their nests high above on stubby legs ill-designed for the purpose.Every 15 feet or so they would flop belly down to rest and recover from the exertion before getting back up and continuing.What supernatural determination in the face of natural adversity!What a life lesson!!
Reminded me of an old Stan Roger’s song: “The Mary Ellen Carter“
RISE AGAIN!!, Rise Again!
No matter what you’ve lost
Be it a home, a love, a friend.
Like the Mary Ellen Carter,
RISE AGAIN!!
Thank you Mr. Chinstrap! ( As if I needed reminding. Both Stan and an old colleague of mine died on the same Air Canada flight in Cincinnatiyears ago. That was a double whammy that was hard to rise from!).
Lemaire Channel is a strait off Antarctica, between Kyiv Peninsula in the mainland’s Graham Land and Booth Island. Nicknamed “Kodak Gap” because of its many photographic opportunities.
LEMAIRE CHANNEL PANORAMA
(To guage the grandeur of scale: Double click and try and find the large cruise ship navigating the narrows in our distant wake!)
Still can’t see it? Ok, I’ll use a telephoto lens.
Petrels are marine seabirds with a curved beak that spend most of their lives flying over the ocean.
All petrels have prominent tube-shaped nostrils. These are either on the sides of their bill (albatrosses) or on the top (all the other petrels). This shared characteristic of nostril arrangement results in the generic name of “tubenoses”. The tubes help petrels find food and nesting areas with their sense of smell. They also drain excess salt from the petrel’s bloodstream, which is removed by capillary glands located above their eyes. This is the reason for the drip often seen at the tip of their bills.
(You are invited to view these images full screen by double clicking. I stuffed enough pixels in these shots to potentially print to about a 6 foot width with full resolution!)
ANTARCTIC PETREL
SNOWY PETREL
I can’t believe my luck capturing this image. Arriving at my customary stern position, my buddy Paul informed me that I had just missed the Snowy Petrel. Bummer! Within about 30 seconds, the bird made an unexpected return appearance and flew straight towards us, breaking off the approach about 15 feet in front of my lens!! It all happened in a few magical seconds. Quite by luck, all my settings were perfect for the occasion and was able to capture this image full frame. I never saw another Snowy Petrel in the entire trip!
One of the problems in the Heroic Age of polar adventure was fresh food…or indeed, any food at all. Many an expedition ended in starvation if not outright cannabalism. Take the american Greely expedition to Ellesmere Island in 1883. Twenty men went in and two years later only three half-humans made it out.
I was lucky. Never had that problem on the island. Food was always plentiful.But then I was taught the skills of fishing from about the age of five.Just ask my brother!
“Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime”
Years later in the Canadian arctic, a fresh catch of Arctic Char always did nicely.Never could have imagined how my upbringing in Canada’s Deep South would be so useful in the Far North!
Char fishing. Lake Hazen (world’s most northern!), Ellesmere Island.
( Hope you recognize the touque from the image of my first footing on the continent of Antarctica. My constant companion during 3 years of Arctic service in Canada’s far north. No way was I going to leave old faithful behind).
Char steaks tonight boys!!
(Click twice for enlargement and tell old squinty to put on his sunglasses!)
Of course for many other polar travellers, hunger pains might lead you to delirious dreams of more mundane menu items than Arctic Char. It all depends on state of mind and the severity of the deprivation. Got me thinking of the memorable northern meals I’ve experienced in my life.
Like dining in style at the old Sourdough cafe in Fairbanks, Alaska after striking it rich in the gold fields.
Or living on boiled oatmeal and raisins in a weather beaten tent in Auyuittuq, Baffin Island.Yummy!!
Or the officers’ mess in the old USAF SAC base, Ultima Thule, Greenland
Our diminutive “Hercules” C-130 comes out warm and toasty after a night in hangars built for the B-52
Thinking constantly of the “old-time” sailor men to brave the waters of Antarctica in the days of yore. Nothing, absolutely nothing, in my or their gustatory experience would have prepared us for what was about to follow. In a bay the first whalers called…….. Paradise!! What the hell would they have thought of this!!
PARADISE BAY
OPEN DECK BBQ NIGHT, OCEAN ENDEAVOUR, PARADISE BAY, ANTARCTICA
Waiter!! I’d like a table with a view please.
Tasteful Table Decorations
Looks like libations will be offered to the polar gods!
Don’t let the ever present danger of avalanche put you off your appetite!Kind of adds to the ambiance don’t you think? No five star Michelin restaurant could possibly compete!!
Plenty of choice in side dishes to accompany our sacrifical burnt offerings!!
Any French fries??
Our Indonesian master chef surveys the preparations!(More than just a little bemused by the mundanity of my eventual meal choice)
Diners enjoy both the food and the 360 degree stunning views of Paradise Bay!!
Une vue imprenable, quoi??
So what was my order in a plethora of exotic BBQ choice?? Since I’m a long time fan of the irrepressible Jimmy Buffet, a true “Parrothead” so to speak, there could only be one!!Yep, you got it!!
CHEESEBURGERS IN PARADISE!!
Jimmy Buffet 1946-2023
“Heard about the old-time sailor men They’d eat the same thing again and again Warm beer and bread, they say, could raise the dead Well, it reminds me of the menu at a Holiday Inn
LAMB SHANK AND ARGENTINIAN MALBEC
Holiday Inn, Buenos Aires
(simply delish!)
But times have changed for sailors these days When I’m in port, I get what I need Not just Havanas or bananas or daiquiris But that American creation on which I feed
Cheeseburgers in Paradise!
Cheeseburger in paradise Medium rare with Muenster’d be nice Heaven on earth with an onion slice I’m just a cheeseburger in paradise
I like mine with lettuce and tomato Heinz 57 and french-fried potatoes Big kosher pickle and a cold draft beer Well, good god Almighty, which way do I steer?
For my cheeseburger in paradise Makin’ the best of every virtue and vice Worth every damn bit of sacrifice To get a cheeseburger in paradise
Yep, cheeseburgers in Paradise. Never thought I’d get the chance this side of heaven!
Take it away Jimmy!!
On behalf of the millions of “parrotheads” the world over, let me say that you as Margaritaville’s founding mayor, are sorely missed.
I hope the cheeseburgers they serve in Heaven are half as good as what I had in Paradise Bay!Save some for me Jimmy!!
AVE ATQUE VALE
AUSTRAL PARAKEET
TIERRA DEL FUEGO NATIONAL PARK, ARGENTINA (maybe Chile?)
(Click and reclick on this image for a view of a real parrot’s head!)
NB: Note to Jimmy. Which way do you steer for a cheeseburger in Paradise? Starting in the North Atlantic, sail for about two months on a bearing of 180 degrees until you reach Cape Horn. Then it’s a hard left for a week’s sail across the notorious Drake Passage and depending on local ice conditions in Paradise Bay, you just might make it. (Like you said, “Worth every damn bit of sacrifice!!”).Good luck!!
CAPE HORN, HORNOS ISLAND, CHILE
(Click and reclick for full screen enlargement)
NOTE: Hornos Island is named after the Dutch city of Hoorn, which is the birthplace of Willem Corneliszoon Schouten, the Dutch navigator who first rounded Cape Horn in 1616.This panorama was shot with a telephoto lens as Chilean coastal restrictions do not allow incursions within a three mile limit.Many thanks to our stalwart captain for giving me the closest possible view of this historic landmark. In the days of the “old-time” sailor men, you weren’t considered a real sailor until you had “rounded the Horn,” notorious for its treacherous waters.
Oops! Looks like some fool followed my directions to Paradise Bay.Didn’t say it was going to be easy!Don’t blame me!!
Abandoned sloop trapped in the ice awaits its inexorable fate.
(Once again, a big shout out to the Intrepid crew of the Ocean Endeavour for a fabulous and most memorable meal!! Muchas Gracias!!)
Here it is. Another Christmas eve and it seems that my celebrations might be a bit delayed this year. Ran into a bit of bother on exiting Ushuaia after my Antarctic adventures. It’s a long story so let me back up a bit.
(Click twice for full screen)
USHUAIA, ARGENTINA
By chance encounter I ran into Santa Claus a few days ago near the South Pole. Seems he fell victim to some climate alarmism misinformation. Someone had told him of the Big Melt up in el Norte which saw his workshop sink into the Arctic Ocean. All his elves have drowned!! Bummer!!
So he was frantically trying to prepare for Christmas at his new location at the South Pole. He needed to replace his departed elves with new helpers. I volunteered to help Rudolph navigate his unfamiliar northern journey on Christmas eve. (Hey! I was once responsible for every gyroscope in the Royal Canadian Navy. Never let it be said that I gave anyone a bum steer!)
Everything seemed to be in order. Since there are no mammals in the Antarctic (and none are allowed), I offered to assemble a team of reindeer at his first northern chokepoint here in Ushuaia. That’s my problem.
Who knew it was a violation of Argentinian law to import reindeer into the Tierra del Fuego National Park? Who knew??Bet Magellan never had this problem!I’m going to speak to Milei about this!!
Rudolph is currently in quarantine!
So I’m in bit of legal bother. I’m out on bail awaiting trial. Having made two transits of the dreaded Drake Passage, I feel I have enough street cred to hang out with old-time sailor men to pass the time and improve my Spanish.Most of it picked up watching “The Cisco Kid.” Two guys in tight pants and a committed relationship riding around old Mexico shooting up bad guys. What was not to like??(“Ah Cisco,… ah Pancho!”). Mexico could sure use them today!! It’s about time someone took out the drug cartels!
(If Darwin served rum as good as this on the Beagle I’d have signed up for that expedition too!)
At my preliminary hearing, the judge said that upon conviction I was liable to ten years hard labour at Argentina’s old penal colony here in Ushuaia.
Having spent two summers working for CN Railways, I think I could fit in quite nicely.The sartorial style however leaves something to be desired.Hopefully it won’t come to that.
Of course if Santa doesn’t make the rendez-vous, at least through prison bars I can glimpse another bucket list triumph. Namely, to see three ships come sailing in on Christmas day in the morning!!
USHUAIA HARBOUR
Not giving up hope however. Worried by my continued absence, my neighbour’s precocious trilingual 4 year old back home sent me some words of encouragement yesterday promising me many Christmas treats. My best Christmas present so far!!
MUCHAS GRACIAS!!
(Ah the optimism of youth!!GEE, I HOPE HE’S RIGHT!!)
The final trick up my sleeve is the belief that Santa must make a stop here in Ushuaia to pickup his misplaced hat. If he can’t bust me out of here, no one can!! So if I’m with him tonight you can forget that cookies and milk nonsense. For me it’s a glass of Chateau la Tour ’48 and big hunk of stilton. If Santa doesn’t fill your stocking, don’t say you weren’t warned.
DON’T CRY FOR ME ARGENTINA!
Nothing left to do but wish all you folks up in el Norte a very Merry Christmas. However not wishing to offend my progressive betters with the traditional greeting, this year its in Spanish. Not just from the bottom of my heart. But this year, FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE WORLD!!
FELIZ NAVIDAD!!
DEL FIN DEL MUNDO!!
PROSPERO ANNO E FELICITA!!
Take it away Jose!Can’t say it any better!!
(Turn up the volume!)
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