One of the problems in the Heroic Age of polar adventure was fresh food…or indeed, any food at all. Many an expedition ended in starvation if not outright cannabalism. Take the american Greely expedition to Ellesmere Island in 1883. Twenty men went in and two years later only three half-humans made it out.
I was lucky. Never had that problem on the island. Food was always plentiful. But then I was taught the skills of fishing from about the age of five. Just ask my brother!
“Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime”
Years later in the Canadian arctic, a fresh catch of Arctic Char always did nicely. Never could have imagined how my upbringing in Canada’s Deep South would be so useful in the Far North!
Char fishing. Lake Hazen (world’s most northern!), Ellesmere Island.
( Hope you recognize the touque from the image of my first footing on the continent of Antarctica. My constant companion during 3 years of Arctic service in Canada’s far north. No way was I going to leave old faithful behind).
Char steaks tonight boys!!
(Click twice for enlargement and tell old squinty to put on his sunglasses!)
Of course for many other polar travellers, hunger pains might lead you to delirious dreams of more mundane menu items than Arctic Char. It all depends on state of mind and the severity of the deprivation. Got me thinking of the memorable northern meals I’ve experienced in my life.
Like dining in style at the old Sourdough cafe in Fairbanks, Alaska after striking it rich in the gold fields.
Or living on boiled oatmeal and raisins in a weather beaten tent in Auyuittuq, Baffin Island. Yummy!!
Or the officers’ mess in the old USAF SAC base, Ultima Thule, Greenland
Our diminutive “Hercules” C-130 comes out warm and toasty after a night in hangars built for the B-52
Thinking constantly of the “old-time” sailor men to brave the waters of Antarctica in the days of yore. Nothing, absolutely nothing, in my or their gustatory experience would have prepared us for what was about to follow. In a bay the first whalers called…….. Paradise!! What the hell would they have thought of this!!
PARADISE BAY
OPEN DECK BBQ NIGHT, OCEAN ENDEAVOUR, PARADISE BAY, ANTARCTICA
Waiter!! I’d like a table with a view please.
Tasteful Table Decorations
Looks like libations will be offered to the polar gods!
Don’t let the ever present danger of avalanche put you off your appetite! Kind of adds to the ambiance don’t you think? No five star Michelin restaurant could possibly compete!!
Plenty of choice in side dishes to accompany our sacrifical burnt offerings!!
Any French fries??
Our Indonesian master chef surveys the preparations! (More than just a little bemused by the mundanity of my eventual meal choice)
Diners enjoy both the food and the 360 degree stunning views of Paradise Bay!!
Une vue imprenable, quoi??
So what was my order in a plethora of exotic BBQ choice?? Since I’m a long time fan of the irrepressible Jimmy Buffet, a true “Parrothead” so to speak, there could only be one!! Yep, you got it!!
CHEESEBURGERS IN PARADISE!!
Jimmy Buffet 1946-2023
“Heard about the old-time sailor men
They’d eat the same thing again and again
Warm beer and bread, they say, could raise the dead
Well, it reminds me of the menu at a Holiday Inn
LAMB SHANK AND ARGENTINIAN MALBEC
Holiday Inn, Buenos Aires
(simply delish!)
But times have changed for sailors these days
When I’m in port, I get what I need
Not just Havanas or bananas or daiquiris
But that American creation on which I feed
Cheeseburgers in Paradise!
Cheeseburger in paradise
Medium rare with Muenster’d be nice
Heaven on earth with an onion slice
I’m just a cheeseburger in paradise
I like mine with lettuce and tomato
Heinz 57 and french-fried potatoes
Big kosher pickle and a cold draft beer
Well, good god Almighty, which way do I steer?
For my cheeseburger in paradise
Makin’ the best of every virtue and vice
Worth every damn bit of sacrifice
To get a cheeseburger in paradise
Yep, cheeseburgers in Paradise. Never thought I’d get the chance this side of heaven!
Take it away Jimmy!!
On behalf of the millions of “parrotheads” the world over, let me say that you as Margaritaville’s founding mayor, are sorely missed.
I hope the cheeseburgers they serve in Heaven are half as good as what I had in Paradise Bay! Save some for me Jimmy!!
AVE ATQUE VALE
AUSTRAL PARAKEET
TIERRA DEL FUEGO NATIONAL PARK, ARGENTINA (maybe Chile?)
(Click and reclick on this image for a view of a real parrot’s head!)
NB: Note to Jimmy. Which way do you steer for a cheeseburger in Paradise? Starting in the North Atlantic, sail for about two months on a bearing of 180 degrees until you reach Cape Horn. Then it’s a hard left for a week’s sail across the notorious Drake Passage and depending on local ice conditions in Paradise Bay, you just might make it. (Like you said, “Worth every damn bit of sacrifice!!”). Good luck!!
CAPE HORN, HORNOS ISLAND, CHILE
(Click and reclick for full screen enlargement)
NOTE: Hornos Island is named after the Dutch city of Hoorn, which is the birthplace of Willem Corneliszoon Schouten, the Dutch navigator who first rounded Cape Horn in 1616. This panorama was shot with a telephoto lens as Chilean coastal restrictions do not allow incursions within a three mile limit. Many thanks to our stalwart captain for giving me the closest possible view of this historic landmark. In the days of the “old-time” sailor men, you weren’t considered a real sailor until you had “rounded the Horn,” notorious for its treacherous waters.
Oops! Looks like some fool followed my directions to Paradise Bay. Didn’t say it was going to be easy! Don’t blame me!!
Abandoned sloop trapped in the ice awaits its inexorable fate.
(Once again, a big shout out to the Intrepid crew of the Ocean Endeavour for a fabulous and most memorable meal!! Muchas Gracias!!)
